A Travel Guide to Mcleodganj
After spending a combined 3 months in Mcleodganj, I am off to explore other parts of this vast, complex land. But before I leave, I’m sharing my observations, knowledge, and lessons learned with anyone who is contemplating their own adventure to these lush, rugged foothills of the Himalayas.
This is not a comprehensive guide as there are some attractions and activities that I never got around to exploring or they simply did not interest me. But I will share as much information as I can about the things I have personally seen and experienced in Mcleodganj to help you plan and prepare your trip. If you have any questions, please leave a comment. I will do my best to answer.
Getting to Mcleodganj
Bus
On both of my trips to Mcleodganj I took an overnight bus from Delhi. I traveled on Laxmi Holiday Lines but several lines, including state run busses, make the trip. Each offer different amenities at varying costs. The Laxmi bus I took is one of the more basic options with a one-way fare costing about 1000 Rupees ($13 US). It offered reclining seats, but that’s about all. More upscale busses include air conditioning, on-board WiFi, and toilets, but cost a little extra at 1,700 Rupees ($22) or more.
All busses leave Delhi from various points at about 7:30 or 8:00 PM and arrive in Dharmshala around 7:30 AM with two or three bathroom/meal breaks along the way. At the Dharmshala station, a bevy of taxis will be waiting to ferry weary passengers the last 5 kilometers (3 miles) up the hill to Mcleodganj for about 400 Rupees ($5).
Even on Laxmi’s basic bus, I found the trip to be fairly comfortable and I was even able to sleep for a few hours, helping the long journey to pass more quickly.
Air
The closest airport to Mcleodganj is Dharmshala-Kangra about 20 kilometers (12 miles) south of town. Two domestic airlines, Spice Jet and Alliance Air, offer daily flights to and from Indira Gandhi International Airport in New Delhi. I have never taken any of these flights, but my friends who have say though the flight options are limited, the prices are quite reasonable starting at around 5,000 Rupees ($63) one-way. The flight time between New Delhi and Dharmshala is about 90 minutes. Other major cities served by Dharmshala-Kangra airport include Chandigarh, Mumbai, and Bengaluru.
Train
The nearest major train station is in Pathankot, about 90 kilometers (55 miles) from Mcleodganj. Taxies and regular buses serve Pathankot from Mcleodganj. Regular trains from this station serve most major cities across India. The journey from Delhi to Pathankot takes about 8 hours. Fares vary from about 200 Rupees ($2.50) for general seating — meaning you get a seat and that’s about all — to 1,300 Rupees ($17) for an air-conditioned sleeper berth. At time of writing, I am booked on a train from Pathankot to Jaisalmer. I will let you know how my first journey on the Indian railway system goes!
Orientation
Mcleodganj sits at 2,000 meters (6,500 feet) above sea level, straddling the heavily forested foothills of the Dhauladhar mountains, a constituent range of the western Himalayas. To the east, three massive, granite peaks tower above the town. The highest, Moon Peak, stands at 6,574 meters (21,568 ft). To the west, Dharamshala sprawls out across the valleys and foothills below. Further to the west lie the Pong reservoir and the fertile farmlands of the Punjab, all visible on a clear day.
Mcleodganj is laid out along a few, narrow, winding streets. They are only wide enough to accommodate one lane of traffic and the absence of sidewalks means they are often choked with cars, motorcycles, people, dogs, and livestock.
The main thoroughfares, Jogiwara and Temple Roads, run parallel to each other. Jogiwara is one-way to the north, starting at the southern entrance to town and ending at the main square. While Temple Road is one-way in the opposite direction, starting at the main square and meeting up with Jogiwara at its southern end where it becomes the main, two-way road connecting Mcleodganj to Dharamsala.
Bhagsu and Dharamkot roads begin at the main square and lead east towards their namesake villages. Police stationed at either end try to prevent the two-way traffic along these constricted streets from becoming clogged. Their apparent ineffectiveness is fodder for many running jokes among the locals, though I would argue they are fighting a losing battle.
North from the main square, past the taxi staging areas, separate roads lead to Dal Lake and the town of Forsythe Ganj.
Most points of interest in Mcleodganj can be accessed by these six roads and are within walking distance of the main square, though travel times can depend greatly on one’s ability to manage the steep hills and high elevation (it once took me two hours to cover the 3 km (1.8 miles) between Mcleodganj and Bagsu).
A note on honking: In the US and many Western cultures, when we honk our car horns it is usually in a fit of sudden, explosive, road rage. The sound of the car horn, in the American dialect, translates to “What the f&*K are you doing? You b&$@&#&d! Get the h#@@ out of my way”!
Indians use the horn differently. Here, a honk is meant as a friendly courtesy. It says, “Hey friend, just letting you know I’m here, behind you, to your left, to your right, coming at you straight on!” They take this courtesy so seriously that many trucks sport hand painted signs asking their fellow drivers to honk at them before passing.
The courtesy behind the honk doesn’t necessarily make the incessant blaring any less annoying. But it helps explain why the horn is used so excessively here. So, as you walk the narrow, steep streets of Mcleodganj, panting for breath, dodging your fellow pedestrians, speeding motorcycles, and the odd cow lumbering into your path, keep in mind that the courteous drivers honking at you every 10 feet only want you to know they are there.
Points of Interest
From exploring your own consciousness at the Tushita Center for Meditation to exploring the vast wilderness of the Himalayas, there really is something for everyone in Mcleodganj.
I will try my best to provide an overall view of the many things to see and do here, but I will focus mostly on the ones I have personally experienced.
Dalai Lama’s Temple (Namgyal Monastery)
After the failed 1959 Tibetan uprising against the Chinese occupation, the then 24-year-old Dalai Lama and his government fled to India. His Holiness eventually settled in Mcleodganj, where the Indian government gave him the home of former British Viceroy, Lord Elgin, who had once suggested making Mcleodganj the summer capital of the British Raj. Over the following decades, the Dalai Lama converted the home into a vast temple complex from where he ran his government-in-exile.
Today, the Dalai Lama has handed over most of his political authority to the Tibetan Parliament-in-Exile which operates out of the CTA (Central Tibetan Adimistration) complex in Dharamshala. But the temple, also known as the Tsuglagkhang complex, still serves as the official residence of the Dalai Lama. It has also taken the name of the traditional seat of the Dalai Lama located in the Potala Palace in Tibet, the Namgyal Monastery. About 200 monks live and work here.
On first glance, the collection of mid-century, utilitarian concrete structures do little to stir the soul. There is almost none of the intricate artwork seen in most Buddhist temples. Only a few colorful thangkas hang on the government-yellow painted walls. A rather drab looking Buddha statue is the focal point of the main shrine.
But once inside the walls of this tiny stronghold of an independent Tibet, one cannot help but be inspired by the determination and resilience of the Tibetan people who have waged a nearly 6 decades long war against their own extinction.
The Dalai Lama’s library exhibits some of the historic texts and artifacts that have been smuggled out of Tibet since the occupation.
The complex includes a large amphitheater where the octogenarian Dalai Lama continues to hold regular “pujas” or teachings. These are often open to the public but usually require pre-registration, which involves a fairly painless process of showing your passport at the CTA (Central Tibetan Authority) office on Bagsu Road.
Otherwise, the temple is open to the public every day from 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM. The main entrance is located at the bottom of Temple Road.
The Kora
The name “Kora” comes from the Tibetan word meaning to circambulate, or to revolve around something. Buddhist devotees walk around a holy site as an act of pilgrimage and meditative practice. In Mcleodganj, “The Kora” refers to the pathway that encircles the Dalai Lama’s temple. The circuit, which begins at the bottom of the switchbacks of temple road and continues around to Temple Square in front of the main gates to the complex, offers a quiet, shady, and relaxing respite from the hustle and bustle of the crowded streets of Mcleodganj.
At any given moment, the Kora is trafficked by monks, pilgrims, and locals practicing their daily devotions and meditation. They walk in solemn concentration, chanting and spinning the hundreds of prayer wheels lining the lush, peaceful path. These decorative drum-like cylinders are meant to aid in meditation and to hurry prayers to the heavens.
But laypeople are welcomed on this path as well. Tourists and those seeking a little exercise out of the way of traffic frequent the circuit each day. It is a favorite gossiping spot for the elderly and many local stray dogs come here to nap. Traditionally, Buddhists practice their koras in a clockwise direction, so traffic on this circuit mainly runs that way. However, no one will look askance at you if you prefer to walk counterclockwise.
To access the Kora, unfortunately you must pass one of the town’s main garbage collection areas. Simply follow Temple Road past the main entrance to the Dalai Lama’s temple where the road veers to the left, follow it down a steep hill past a tailor’s shop and restaurant. It turns to the right then, at the bottom of another steep incline, it hairpins to the left. Here, you will find the entrance to the Kora.
Hold your breath and follow the path for about 20 meters (65 feet) past a band of monkeys who will watch you closely, pondering whether you are carrying any bananas or bags of chips they might want to confiscate. Once clear of the trash dump, you are on a tranquil, shady, and charming path.
Note: While open to the public, the Kora is a pilgrimage site. You are welcome to take pictures of the many shrines, offerings, prayer wheels, and monuments along the path. But be respectful and courteous to the devotees engaged in their religious practices.
Mcleod Square Temple
After the Dalai Lama’s temple, the second most significant religious site in Mcleodganj is the Mcleod Square Temple also known as the Kalachakra Temple. Sandwiched between Jogiwara Road and Temple Road in the center of Mcleodganj, this compact temple is much more ornate than anything in the Dalai Lama’s complex, sporting gold-leafed trim, delicately carved reliefs, and vividly painted murals. Visitors can spin the prayer wheels at street level or climb to its 2nd story terraces to take pictures of the busy streets below. Be respectful of the monks practicing their prayers and meditation within its walls.
Tushita Meditation Centre
Opened by followers of Lama Thubten Yeshe and his student Zopa Rinpoche, the Tushita Mediation Centre has provided introductory and intermediate courses in Tibetan Buddhism including meditation and yoga since 1972. While the center offers packages including week-long retreats with room and board, they also offer drop-in sessions for guided meditations at no charge. I have attended several of these hour-long, early morning, sessions which provide a decent introduction to the benefits of meditation. The center occupies a large complex atop a hill to the north of Mcleodganj.
St. John’s in the Wilderness
Some websites praise this Anglican church as a shining example of British gothic colonial architecture. While it is pleasant to look at, aside from its obvious fish-out-of-water placement in Northern India, there isn’t anything particularly special about this small, stone church nestled in the woods to the east of Mcleodganj. If you’ve seen any 19th century, protestant, country church in Missouri or the English Midlands, you have seen this church.
It was built in 1852 and is best known for its stained-glass windows donated by Lady Louisa Lambton, widow of Lord Elgin, Viceroy of India, who died in 1863 while crossing a rope bridge over the river Chadly near Mcleodganj. He was buried in the churchyard at St. Johns in the Wilderness. Nearly a century later, the Indian government donated his Mcleodganj villa to the Dalai Lama to use as his permanent residence.
It is interesting to observe the reverence shown by locals visiting the church. A sign at the door asks you to remove your shoes, just as you would upon entering any Hindu or Buddhist temple. I took off my shoes, entered the sanctuary, took a seat in the pews, and watched as Hindus, Buddhists, Sikhs, and Jains reverently made their way down the aisle to the alter.
Some crossed themselves, having seen the gesture made in movies or TV shows and guessing it was the appropriate thing to do in such a place. Others offered fruit, milk, or 10 Rupee bills as a sign of respect.
After watching the interplay of faiths within the sanctuary, the surrounding churchyard offers plenty to explore. The heavily wooded gardens are shaded by tall Himalayan Cypresses. The many gravestones scattered around the church mark the final resting places of generations of British colonists, many of whom died in the 1905 Mcleodganj earthquake which claimed more than 20,000 lives.
You can walk to St. John’s in the Wilderness from the main square in Mcleodganj by following the lower, northern road toward Forsythe Ganj. The church is on left about 750 meters (.5 mile) from Mcleodganj. Anglican services are conducted every Sunday at 10:00 AM.
Dal Lake
Do not confuse this Dal Lake with the crystal-clear waters of Srinagar’s Dal Lake in Jammu and Kashmir… you will be sorely disappointed. Mcleodganj’s Dal Lake is more of a Dal Pond, its levels fluctuating wildly over the course of the seasons from completely dry at the beginning of summer to about 3 or 4 feet of murky, greenish-brown water at the height of the rainy season.
However, the parks surrounding this small, seasonal puddle offer a quiet, year-round respite from the daily bustle. Dal means lake in several local languages and a shrine to Shiva located on the northern shore marks the area’s spiritual importance.
In my experience, the walk to Dal Lake is more rewarding than the destination. Passing through the local Army station of Tanglewood, the road winds up and over several ridges, providing breathtaking views of the valleys below. Once there, street vendors and several cafes offer refreshments that you can enjoy while resting on one of the many shaded benches positioned around the shore.
To reach Dal Lake, simply follow the lower northern road from the main square in Mcleodganj for about 3 kilometers (1.8 miles).
Bhagsu
Many Indians looking to escape the summer heat of Delhi or Chandigarh will book a stay at Bhagsu, a village about 2 kilometers (1.25 miles) east of Mcleodganj. The area boasts an array of chic and trendy cafes, restaurants, shops, and hotels. Follow Bhagsu road east from the main square to reach this quaint, slightly upmarket village.
Bhagsunath Temple
Since the medieval period, a temple has stood at Bhagsu to commemorate a mythical battle between Nag Devta, the snake carried around Lord Shiva’s neck, and the local king, Bhagsu. According to legend, Nag Devta accused Bhagsu of stealing water from the sacred Dal Lake and subsequently defeated him in battle. As penance for his crimes, Bhagsu built the temple and its accompanying pools.
The Gorkha regiment assigned to this area in the late 19th century built the modern temple we see today. Hindus swim in the pools which they believe have healing properties. Though I have never seen any overt restrictions to westerners — or non-Hindus — swimming in the pools, I have never seen any taking a dip (I made this assessment after seeing the bathers only in their trunks… so, I am probably lacking sufficient data to reach a reliable conclusion). Neither have I ever seen women in the pools, though I am told women can swim in the early morning hours (before 7:00 AM).
From the taxi staging area at the entrance to Bhagsu, follow the signs along the pedestrian path south about 200 meters (650 feet) to the temple.
Bhagsunag Waterfall
Ironically, the nearby waterfall does not feed the sacred lake from which King Bhagsu was accused of stealing water. But it does feed the pools of the temple he built in penance. The Bhagsunag waterfall cascades 20 meters (65 feet) down a narrow, rocky, cliff located about 1 kilometer (.6 mile) from the Bhagsu temple.
Follow the signs (in Hindi and English) at the southern end of the temple to the pathway that winds its way up the canyon wall toward the base of the falls. Several small tea stands offer refreshments along the way. But consider holding out until you reach the base of the falls, where a teashop offers cushions so you can sit on a rock at the edge of the pool, dangle your feet in the cool, clear water, and sip a hot chai while listening to the falls rushing down the rocks overhead.
From here, trails lead to the top of the falls where more tea shops offer even more refreshment options. From the top, separate trails lead to Dharamkot and provide a southern route to the Triund trek.
Dharamkot
While Bhagsu is a magnet for the Delhi Bourgeoisie, Dharamkot attracts Hippies from around the world. This village straddles the crest of a ridge overlooking Bhagsu and is mostly inaccessible by car. Many new-age themed hostels, restaurants, and bars line its narrow pedestrian paths which offer spectacular views of the valley and surrounding peaks.
Dharamkot is also known as “Tel Aviv of the Hills” due to its popularity among young Israeli tourists. It boasts the only Jewish Community Center in the state of Himachal Pradesh, Chabad House. Many signs are written in Hebrew, restaurants serve falafel, and each year the village celebrates Rosh-Hashana.
While young backpackers tend to patronize Dharamkot, its laid-back atmosphere welcomes everyone. You can walk or take a taxi directly from the main square in Mcleodganj by following the Dharamkot road for about 3 kilometers (2 miles). You will be dropped off in the taxi staging area outside the gates to the Tushita Mediation Centre. From here, two pedestrian paths lead into the village of Dharamkot.
Galu/Triund
If you walk or take a taxi up the steep, rocky dirt road leading north from the Dharamkot taxi staging area, in about 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) you will reach the hill station of Galu. At an elevation of 2,100 meters (6,889 feet), this is the official entrance to the Triund trek.
Galu does not offer much beyond some amazing views of the Himalayas stretching to the north and south. A couple of tea stalls, a small general store, and a police station line the dusty road to the Triund trail at the eastern end of the village. Known as one of the shortest and easiest of treks in the Himalayas, the Triund attracts many tourists and beginner hikers looking to get a taste of mountaineering adventure.
Outfitters in Mcleodganj offer guided treks and overnight camping experiences starting at about 800 rupees ($10) per person. However, the basic trek follows a well-marked trail and can be easily done in one day.
Entrance to Triund is free, however, you will need to register with the police at the station in Galu, so bring your passport. The 10 Kilometer (6 miles) long trail is moderately difficult, with some steep, rocky sections. But like everywhere else in India, you won’t have to go far before finding a tea stall where you can rest and recharge. The Magic View Café offers hot chai to trekkers at about the half-way point.
The trek ends at an elevation of 2850 meters (9,350 feet) atop a saddle like ridge straddling three towering peaks. From here, hikers get an unparalleled, close-up view of Moon Peak and can take in the vast Kangra valley and the Punjab stretching out to the western horizon.
More adventurous trekkers can continue another 4 kilometers (2.5 miles) into the mountains to Snowline. This basecamp at an elevation of 3350 meters (10,990 feet) it is the entrance to the Indrahar Pass and mountain ranges beyond. I have not done this trek, but I am told it is moderately difficult and suitable for beginner hikers.
Places to Eat
Part of the fun of getting to know Mcleodganj is exploring the innumerable cafes and restaurants packed into every nook and cranny of this little town. Down every narrow, winding alley, at the top of every random set of stairs, around every corner, someone has opened a coffee shop, tea stall, or lounge offering everything from sushi to pizza. Here, I will only mention a few of my favorites:
Snow Lion Café — located near the main square on Jogiwara road, this jazzy little coffee shop offers a variety of teas and coffees as well as an assortment of Tibetan, Chinese, and Indian dishes. It is a favorite haunt of expats who enjoy listening to jazz while working on their laptops or staring out the large picture window at the activities in the temple across the street. Prices here are very reasonable with a specialty coffee costing around 120 Rupees ($1.50).
Om Café — Off the beaten path in Narwojee Road, a small alley running parallel toe Temple Road, this gem is worth searching for. With a breezy patio overlooking Dharamshala, the easy atmosphere invites you to sit back and relax. They offer a variety of vegetarian dishes including pizza, chow main, and the Tibetan dumplings known as momos. Dishes are moderately priced with a pizza costing about 300 Rupees ($3.80).
Green Restaurant — On Bagsu Road, this cozy restaurant serves an eclectic selection of cold and hot coffee drinks, sandwiches, and traditional Tibetan and Indian fare as well as an assortment of pastries. Prices are moderate, with a plate of momos costing around 200 Rupees ($2.50).
These are only some of the places and experiences that made my time in Mcleodganj fascinating and memorable. This guide only scratches the surface of what this community has to offer. But if you are planning to visit these hills, I hope this information is helpful as you create your own amazing journey.
